What are the different types of gold in jewelry?

The choice of a gold jewel goes beyond its design: it is essential to understand the characteristics of the material and the manufacturing method to choose a piece suitable for our needs. Here we explain in greater depth the particularities of each type of gold and its relevance in the jewelry industry.

Pure: Timeless Luxury and Tradition

Pure gold (24k) is the standard of excellence in jewelry due to its nearly complete gold composition, reaching 99.9%. This material is valuable for its distinctive shine, warm color, and resistance to corrosion. However, its softness makes it impractical for jewelry subject to daily wear, such as rings or bracelets. To increase its functionality, other metals like copper or silver are mixed, creating 18k (75% gold) and 14k (58.5% gold) alloys. These versions are more durable and present different colors, such as white or rose gold, ideal for those seeking versatility without sacrificing elegance.

Laminated: Affordable and durable quality

Gold-filled jewelry consists of a metal base, such as brass, copper, or stainless steel, coated with a thick layer of real gold (usually 18 karats). This coating is bonded through heat and pressure, which distinguishes it from gold plating and gold vermeil due to the greater amount of gold used and its durability. For a piece to be considered gold-filled, the gold layer must represent at least 5% of the total weight of the jewelry. This ensures greater resistance to wear compared to other methods, such as plating or vermeil, where the layers are significantly thinner.

Vermeil: The balance between luxury and accessibility

Vermeil gold (or "ver-méi") is a jewelry technique that combines luxury and accessibility by using a sterling silver base coated with a layer of real gold through electroplating. To be considered vermeil, the piece must meet certain quality standards: first, the base must be 925 silver, composed of 92.5% pure silver, which ensures durability and is ideal for people with sensitive skin due to its hypoallergenic nature. Additionally, the applied gold layer must have a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns, making it significantly more resistant than gold-plated or gold-dipped jewelry. Finally, the gold used must be at least 10 karats, although it is common to use 18k gold or higher to offer a richer and warmer finish. These characteristics make vermeil an elegant, durable, and accessible option for those seeking the appearance and weight of solid gold without the high cost.

Plated: Temporary shine at low cost

Gold plating (or gilding) consists of a metal base, such as copper, brass, steel, or an economical alloy, coated with a very thin layer of real gold. This layer is applied through an electrochemical process known as electroplating, in which the gold adheres to the surface of the base metal using electric current. The gold layer in plating is usually much thinner than in gold leaf, generally less than 0.5 microns. For this reason, plated jewelry is priced lower but is also less durable. Over time and with frequent use, this thin layer can wear off, revealing the base metal underneath.

Bañado: The most economical option

Gold plating is a coating technique in which a metallic object, usually made of economical materials such as brass, copper, or steel, is immersed in a liquid solution containing gold. Through an electrolysis process, an extremely thin layer of gold adheres to the surface of the metal. The gold layer in gold plating is much thinner than in gilding, with a thickness usually less than 0.175 microns. Because of this, gold plating is less durable and wears off easily with frequent use, contact with water, or chemicals.

Which one to choose and why?

In the world of jewelry, the different techniques and materials used in gold pieces cater to diverse needs, tastes, and budgets. Pure gold stands out for its value and exclusivity, although its softness limits its practical use. On the other hand, laminated gold offers a more durable and affordable option, with a thick gold layer that ensures durability. Vermeil gold balances luxury and functionality by combining sterling silver and a considerably thicker gold layer than in other techniques. Finally, gold-plated and gold-filled options provide economical alternatives, though with less durability due to their thinner layers.

Comparing these types of gold allows us to see how each one adapts to different market demands. While some prioritize durability and authenticity, others stand out for their focus on aesthetics or affordable cost. The choice of a piece of jewelry will depend on factors such as intended use, budget, and longevity expectations. Each option has its place and purpose in a sector that continues to evolve to offer something for every type of consumer. Here at Napoleone Joyas, we choose to use exclusively 18k gold, guaranteeing the best possible quality for all those interested in acquiring jewelry with high resistance, long durability, and aesthetic value.